about100

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The American Classic…

I had just turned 21, and on this blistering cold winter’s day, I was walking around in New York. It got so cold that I decided to jump into the Strand Bookstore in East Village.

I had just turned 21, and on this blistering cold winter’s day, I was walking around in New York. It got so cold that I decided to jump into the Strand Bookstore in East Village.

Back then, Fred, the owner, would sit by the cashier and raise his hand to greet his regular customers amongst the many that walked through the door.

I met Fred while I was dealing with this rare book and since then, whenever he finds me, he would raise his hand and say “Hi there, what are you after today?”

One day, Fred had introduced me to a famous art book collector. “You should dress the part,” he said. Not sure what would be appropriate, he showed me this photography book and said, “You should wear a suit.”

The book was a chronicle of the Robert F. Kennedy’s election campaign. It was full of photographs of the senator, clad in his traditional suit, looking clean but not to rigid, and full of youth and vigor, so much so that one could look at this as a textbook for American classic fashion.

As I was turning the pages, I came across a picture of Robert relaxing in some kind of a clubhouse, in a navy suit, white semi-wide spread shirt, and a navy-colored ties. I thought, how cool and stylish was this man.

It was obvious. My fashion role model was now Robert Kennedy, particularly when I wear a suit for business situations where I would meet people.

The American Classic… image

This may go slightly off the subject but there was a famous quote by Robert Kennedy in this photography book which was, “The future is not a gift: it is an achievement.” I don’t know how many times this quote helped me through my 20s.

So allow me, a man partial to American classic fashion, to share some pointers for suits.

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The balance
in the cuffs

Make sure that 1cm of the shirt shows from under the jacket when the arm is down. The stretchy material inside the sleeves allow for movement.

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The balance
in the cuffs

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Make sure that 1cm of the shirt shows from under the jacket when the arm is down. The stretchy material inside the sleeves allow for movement.

Smooth and
durable

98% Super110's wool, a sturdily-weaved material, so durable but smooth. Functional pocket for the inside.

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Smooth and
durable

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98% Super110's wool, a sturdily-weaved material, so durable but smooth. Functional pocket for the inside.

Exquisite
V-zone

Perfect balance of size and shape with the lapels. The gorge line that divides the lower and higher lapels must be at a position for a clean balance.

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Exquisite
V-zone

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Perfect balance of size and shape with the lapels. The gorge line that divides the lower and higher lapels must be at a position for a clean balance.

Ease of move
and comfort

Crossing over the lining at the back helps to improve shoulder and arm movement. Note the length of the jacket is key to the look.

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Ease of move
and comfort

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Crossing over the lining at the back helps to improve shoulder and arm movement. Note the length of the jacket is key to the look.

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The Basics of Suits

Most of all, the important aspect in the look is the hairstyle. It needs to be well-groomed to go with the suit because no matter how classy the suit is, an unkempt do will ruin it all. It might be a look for your usual ensemble. But with a suit, a groomed coiffure is a must. This goes for the beard and the nails. Cleanly groomed presentation of yourself is key.

The recent trend is those snugly-fit suit but that has to match with your body size. A suit should never be too tight. It’s unfortunate if you feel constrained and all you think about is going home and taking it off. That slight roominess in the suit size does wonders to its dignity. For color, definitely navy or grey.

For ties, I recommend a regimental or a plain. If you don’t own that many, just one plain navy and one plain grey will do. I personally like a chic look where you put on a navy tie with a navy suit. It’s low-key but has the most noble look.

The balance above the bust is key to a suit. Choose a tie with the same width as the lapel of the jacket. The balance goes off if you have a skinny tie to a wide lapel as well as a fat tie to a skinny lapel. The plain knot is fine but make sure it’s tight as it can come loose. I always have a white pocket square which just sharpens the entire look.

The Basics of Suits image

For trousers, the length really defines the silhouette. Not too long, not too short or it just ruins the beautiful tapered line. Make sure you have your shoes on when you are being measured. A double-pleated trouser should come down just to touch the arch of your shoes without a cushion. For single-pleated trousers, a bit of cushion is recommended. Fix the height of the waist, then when you put your hands in your pocket, make sure that the trouser doesn’t come up too high to reveal your ankles.

Another important aspect of a suit fashion is the socks. It doesn’t show when you are standing but as soon as you sit down, you don’t want to be caught wearing a mismatched pair. You have to have the basic colors of black, navy, and grey. Try to choose the same color as your suit and a longer one so when you cross your legs, it doesn’t reveal your leg hair.

Finally, a suit will keep its beauty only with care. When you put the suit on a hanger after a day, you’ll notice the creases in the back, shoulder area, inner elbow area, as well as the back of the knees. Give it a good brushing to brush off any dust and iron to take out the creases. This goes for the tie, too.

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The Kando Jacket for…

When I don’t wear a suit, my standard look is an ensemble with a Kando jacket(ultra light). It’s light, easy-to-move, and goes with anything. T-shirt for summer, a shirt for spring, and a knitted top for fall/winter, a true almighty gear for work. I always pack the Kando jacket ensemble on holidays, too.

I intentionally choose a slightly longer length for the trousers of the same material and do a double roll-up. I can wear it with a pair of sneakers but to balance out the casualness, I put a pair of straight tips.

It just has such possibilities for a look. It gives you that head-held-high, proud posture. The important thing in winter fashion is to walk with this good posture. For summer, the clean skin is a must.

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The Kando Jacket for…

When I don’t wear a suit, my standard look is an ensemble with a Kando jacket(ultra light). It’s light, easy-to-move, and goes with anything. T-shirt for summer, a shirt for spring, and a knitted top for fall/winter, a true almighty gear for work. I always pack the Kando jacket ensemble on holidays, too.

I intentionally choose a slightly longer length for the trousers of the same material and do a double roll-up. I can wear it with a pair of sneakers but to balance out the casualness, I put a pair of straight tips.

It just has such possibilities for a look. It gives you that head-held-high, proud posture. The important thing in winter fashion is to walk with this good posture. For summer, the clean skin is a must.

Knitted top for
the inner layer

Extra Fine Merino Crew Sweater inside the Kando jacket. This is my standard look for business.

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Knitted top for
the inner layer

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Extra Fine Merino Crew Sweater inside the Kando jacket. This is my standard look for business.

Roll up
the trousers

A dressy straight tip and a very short pair of socks. Elegant look around your feet, even with a casual set-up.

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Roll up
the trousers

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A dressy straight tip and a very short pair of socks. Elegant look around your feet, even with a casual set-up.

When I wear a suit,
I feel this confidence that
I can take on the challenge.

Yataro Matsuura

When I wear a suit,
I feel this confidence that
I can take on the challenge.

Yataro Matsuura
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Simple yet premium.
Light and easy to move.
The ultimate of regularwear.

Yataro Matsuura

Simple yet premium.
Light and easy to move.
The ultimate of regularwear.

Yataro Matsuura
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LifeWear Story 100
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What is “LifeWear story 100?”

At UNIQLO,
there exist these lines of clothes
which has remained for many years,
trend-neutral
yet never dated.
Out of the line-ups,
they are the unsung presence,
sitting quietly behind in TV ads.

Yet, they are the culmination
of the years of passion and devotion,
where UNIQLO sought to pursue
more comfort,
more durability, and
more quality.

They give shape and gravitas
to what and who UNIQLO is,
and what UNIQLO continues
to nurture with great care.

To go beyond yesterday,
to reach higher tomorrow.

When you take it in your hands,
when you try it on,
it softly speaks to you,
almost like a friend.

What is a rich quality
lifestyle?
How is such a quality day spent?
What does happiness mean to you…

And you will find yourself
surprised to discover that such
piece of clothing has existed.

What is the UNIQLO principle?
Why do we call clothing LifeWear?
What kind of clothes constitute
LifeWear?

Here, we go deep into
the root of LifeWear,
to know
and to tell.
And I hope to write
stories that revolve
around LifeWear and myself.

LifeWear story 100 will be
a story about a journey with me and LifeWear.

Yataro Matsuura

Yataro Matsuura
Yataro Matsuura

Essayist, editor. Born 1965 in Tokyo.
For nine years from 2005, under the leadership of the founder, Shizuko Ohashi, he was the chief editor for the magazine, “Kurashi no Techo.” Since, he launched an online media site, “Kurashi no Kihon.” Currently, sits as a director for Oishii Kenko Ltd. Recognized for his eye for style and experience in presenting ideas for quality lifestyle. Regularly writes in his columns in newspapers and magazines. Has penned numerous best-sellers including “Kyo mo Teinei ni” and “Shigoto no Kihon Kurashi no Kihon 100.” Hosts a radio program on NHK Radio 1, “Karen Style.”

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