Today, as perceived by designer Jil Sander
YOU AVOID OSTENTATIOUS FASHION STATEMENTS AND PREFER TO SPEAK ABOUT EVOLVING YOUR VISION OF +J. WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY THAT?
I prefer to attract interest in clothes in a more subtle way, concentrating on a new language of form and fresh proportions. I avoid superfluous decorations which distract from the personality of the wearer. I concentrate on value in the materials, workmanship and a perfect fit.
HOW DOES YOUR SIGNATURE AS A DESIGNER COME INTO PLAY?
A designer’s signature lies more in the overall approach. In my case, an unconditional interest in contemporary sculpted solutions with a modern freshness, based on high quality in materials, functionality and detailed workmanship for long-lasting use. Also, the collection as a whole turns into a personal statement. I want all pieces of each season to communicate and to speak the same language.
WE SEE MORE VARIETIES OF OUTERWEAR ITEMS SUCH AS DOWN AND CASHMERE-BLENDED COATS. THE CASHMERE BLEND WRAP LONG COAT HAS AN ESPECIALLY FRESH SILHOUETTE AND SOPHISTICATED LOOK. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT ITS CONCEPT AND TIPS ON HOW TO STYLE IT?
I felt that the aesthetic possibilities of those classics were not yet exhausted. I designed them from inspiring materials and looked for new shapes and proportions. As for the cashmere blend wrap long coat, it features interesting sleeves and an inside belt which allows for elegant draping at the front. The coat is quite feminine, but you can also combine it in a sporty way.
WHEN LOTS OF PEOPLE HEAR +J, THE FIRST THING THEY THINK ABOUT ARE SHIRTS, SINCE THEY PLAY SUCH A KEY ROLE IN THESE COLLECTIONS. CAN YOU SHARE A FEW TIPS ON HOW PEOPLE CAN BEST WEAR THE SHIRTS?
The white shirt responds to my idea of purity, but it’s just one element in a complex collection. Once you have a sophisticated, tailored shirt that fits your body well, you look for the same kind of ease in the jacket and pants that go with it. Today, formal shirts are worn over pants as a shirt jacket or in place of a dress, which makes the perfection of sartorial details even more crucial. You can combine a tailored shirt with a heavy coat to create a contrast of strength and sensibility. Or you simply wear the coat on naked skin.
THERE’S THIS SEASONAL CONCEPT OF ‘OUR WORLD IS PREPARING FOR A NEW BEGINNING. THE MOOD IS SOBER, YET HOPEFUL. COMFORT IS KEY, PAIRED WITH AN ATTRACTIVE CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE.’ HOW IS THIS REFLECTED IN THIS COLLECTION?
We are still shaken from the pandemic and cautiously optimistic. We return to social life, but we want to feel protected. This collection explores new oversize silhouettes with a controlled fit and variations of substantial winter classics. Comfort has become dear to us. We want to feel a personal shell.
WHAT INSPIRED THE COLOUR PALETTE FOR THE FALL/WINTER COLLECTION? THIS SEASON, YOU’VE INCORPORATED GORGEOUS REDS AND BLUES.
Visual whites and variations of red, especially for shirts and knits, are energy pools within an understated colour range of black, navy, graphite, khaki and shades of caramel. The subdued overall palette draws attention to the volumes, cuts and silhouettes.
TELL US MORE ABOUT THE BAGS DEBUTING THIS COLLECTION.
The overall idea of bags has changed in the last decades. Practicality and thoughtful design are more important to us today, and we tend to look for unisex shapes. Bags are essential items—we consult them as frequently as our smartphones. The main points for me were storage space, handiness, an appealing modern shape and solid, tactile leather. The large shopper can replace a briefcase.
LOOKING AT THIS SEASON’S OUTERWEAR, SWEATS, AND KNIT ITEMS, WHAT MAKES THIS COLLECTION STAND OUT?
This winter’s collection features distinctive silhouettes, upcycled classics, sensual textures, an emphasis on value, luxurious tailoring, and attractive proportions which respond to our new sense of comfort.
WHAT IS +J TO YOU?
+J is a laboratory of the future to me. I am trying to materialize what I feel about the reality around me. I hope to catch vibes, needs and desires and, accordingly, design engaging looks, which encourage us to feel renewed and in sync with the present moment.