Today, as perceived by designer Jil Sander
YOU AVOID OSTENTATIOUS FASHION STATEMENTS, AND PREFER TO SPEAK ABOUT EVOLVING YOUR VISION FOR +J. CAN YOU DESCRIBE YOUR VISION?
I prefer to attract interest in clothes in a more subtle way, concentrating on a new language of form and fresh proportions. I avoid superfluous decorations that distract from the personality of the wearer. I concentrate on adding value through materials, craft, and the perfect fit.
HOW DOES YOUR SIGNATURE AS A DESIGNER COME INTO PLAY?
A designer’s signature lies more in the overall approach. In my case, an unconditional interest in contemporary sculpted solutions with a modern freshness, based on high quality materials, functionality, and detailed craft for durability. The collection as a whole turns into a personal statement. I want all pieces from each season to communicate and to speak the same language.
THIS SEASON, WE SEE MORE VARIETIES OF OUTERWEAR, SUCH AS DOWN JACKETS AND CASHMERE-BLENDED COATS. THE CASHMERE BLEND WRAP LONG COAT HAS AN ESPECIALLY FRESH SILHOUETTE AND SOPHISTICATED LOOK. CAN YOU TELL US ABOUT ITS CONCEPT AND TIPS ON HOW TO STYLE IT?
I felt that the aesthetic possibilities of these classics were not yet exhausted. I designed with inspiring materials and looked for new shapes and proportions. As for the Cashmere Blend Wrap Long Coat, it features interesting sleeves and an inside belt, which allows for elegant draping at the front. The coat is quite feminine, and you can also style it in a sporty way.
WHEN LOTS OF PEOPLE HEAR +J, THE FIRST THING THEY THINK ABOUT ARE SHIRTS, SINCE THEY PLAY SUCH A KEY ROLE IN THESE COLLECTIONS. CAN YOU SHARE A FEW TIPS ON HOW PEOPLE CAN BEST WEAR THE SHIRTS?
The white shirt responds to my idea of purity, but it’s just one element in a complex collection. Once you have a sophisticated, tailored shirt that fits your body well, you look for the same kind of ease in the jacket and trousers that go with it. Today, formal shirts are worn over trousers as a shirt jacket or in place of a dress, which makes the perfection of sartorial details even more crucial. You can combine a tailored shirt with a heavy coat to create a contrast of strength and sensibility. Or, you simply wear the coat over naked skin.
THE CONCEPT FOR THIS SEASON IS: ‘OUR WORLD IS PREPARING FOR A NEW BEGINNING. THE MOOD IS SOBER, YET HOPEFUL. COMFORT IS KEY, PAIRED WITH AN ATTRACTIVE CONTEMPORARY ELEGANCE.’ HOW IS THIS REFLECTED IN THE COLLECTION?
We are still shaken from the pandemic, but cautiously optimistic. We return to social life, but we want to feel protected. This collection explores new oversized silhouettes with a controlled fit and variations on substantial winter classics. Comfort has become dear to us. We want to feel a personal shell.
WHAT INSPIRED THE COLOUR PALETTE OF GORGEOUS REDS AND BLUES FOR THE AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION?
Visual whites and variations of red, especially for shirts and knits, are energy pools within an understated colour range of black, navy, graphite, khaki, and shades of caramel. The subdued palette draws attention to the volumes, cuts, and silhouettes.
TELL US MORE ABOUT THE BAGS MAKING THEIR DEBUT IN THIS COLLECTION.
The overall idea of bags has changed in the last decades. Practicality and thoughtful design are more important to us today, and we tend to look for unisex shapes. Bags are essential items—we consult them as frequently as our smartphones. The main points for me were storage space, handiness, an appealing modern shape, and solid, tactile leather. The large shopper can even replace a briefcase.
LOOKING AT THIS SEASON’S OUTERWEAR, SWEATS, AND KNITWEAR, WHAT MAKES THIS COLLECTION STAND OUT?
This winter’s collection features distinctive silhouettes, upcycled classics, sensual textures, an emphasis on value, luxurious tailoring, and attractive proportions that respond to our new sense of comfort.
WHAT IS +J TO YOU?
To me, +J is a laboratory of the future. I am trying to materialise what I feel about the reality around me. I hope to catch vibes, needs, and desires and, accordingly, design engaging looks, which encourage us to feel renewed and in sync with the present moment.