This is the most concise Uniqlo U collection to date. Why is that?
We are aiming to make and distribute only what’s necessary by having less pieces. A more concise collection pushes us to rethink function in our daily lives, and our new habits, to redefine our needs. It’s an interesting exercise. We think a lot about the concept of a refined wardrobe each piece should have a very precise function, being of use on its own but also working together by layering to create new functions.
Why was a unisex offering so important to you this season?
It came from observing people around us. It feels like a natural evolution of how we and the people around us dress. We see the garment as an open invitation it’s more about personality and how an individual will interpret and integrate the garment into their wardrobe than it is about gender. The codes of how we are supposed to dress are not as rigid as they once were. Now we can see people becoming very free and creative with their use of garments. It is a natural step in how we conceive the collection.
The idea of a new take on minimalism is a concept you are constantly refining. How did that take shape this season?
We try to be straightforward, with an emphasis on how the piece is cut and how the fabric behaves simple, high quality with a practical sense of beauty and refined colours. To go straight to the function influences the cuts and details, and it allows for the garment to be versatile, taking on a different role in different looks for different settings or occasions. The more versatile it is, the more timeless it will be. Also, we try to create garments that hopefully everyone, from different ages, social backgrounds, countries and regions, can understand and adapt to make their own. Pieces that can last for a long time.
Which piece defines the spirit of this collection?
The pocketable long coat, because it’s so functional, practical and versatile. It can be used in so many ways, by everybody, no matter their age or gender.
How did you and the Paris R&D Centre design team develop this season’s colour palette together?
The Uniqlo U DNA is colours that are interesting neutrals rich and refined. It always starts with an instinctive desire for certain tones and colours always fed by artists or photography exhibitions, movies, art books and people in the streets. Then it’s about finding the right shade, the right combinations of colours, to achieve a palette that feels easy and desirable but also new and exciting.
Many of the pieces in this collection use a cut and sewn technique. Can you explain this concept and why you favour it?
Naturally, there has been an evolutionary shift in the way we dress. The T-shirt is one of the most universal pieces one could own, it’s a wardrobe essential for every one of us. At Uniqlo U, the cut and sew technique allows us to be bolder and more playful with colours. As designers we can step outside of our comfort zone and try out new things.